2009.135.1

Collection type

Object

Description

Embroidered woman's jacket top. [FB 08/05/2012]

Long description

Embroidered woman's jacket top. The top part of a woman's jacket formed from two rectangular pieces of appliquéd and embroidered cotton and an appliquéd and embroidered isosceles triangle of cloth inserted with the apex fitting into the point where the rectangles meet. The long side of the triangle acts as part of the base to which the rectangular collar is attached. The rectangular pieces have been decorated with geometric patterns embroidered in minute cross stitch in green, white, red and yellow cotton yarn and linear designs in appliquéd red, yellow, and white cotton textile. Narrow red lines have been couched onto the yellow appliquéd cotton. Linear patterns yellow and green thread have been embroidered in herringbone stitch. The base textile is blue cotton. The triangular piece has been decorated with red, white and orange cotton cross stitch embroidery and appliqué.

Geographical reference

China

Asia > Eastern Asia > China

Guizhou Province Nankai Village

Cultural groups

Hmong

Person

Field collector Deryn O'Connor

PRM source Deryn O'Connor

Date / Period

Date made: Before 10/04/1993

Date collected

10 April 1993

Acquisition information

Donated: 2006

Materials and processes

Material Cotton Seed Fibre Textile Plant, Material Cotton Seed Fibre Yarn Plant, Material Silk Yarn Animal, Material Pigment, Process Stitched, Process Dyed, Process Embroidered, Process Woven, Process Appliqué

Dimensions

Width: max 620 mm, Length: max 1060 mm

Object numbers

Accession number: 2009.135.1 Other numbers: 10

Research and responses

Taken from Miao Costumes from Guizhou Province South West China by Deryn O' Connor. Catalogue of an exhibition at James Hockney Gallery, WSCAD, Farnham pp.26 -30: "...Woman: everyday: short sleeveless jacket, of hemp or cotton, in the form of a decorated top with collar, tacked onto a collarless underlayer. Tops have rectangular designs in yellow, orange or red appliquéd cotton strips, enclosing areas patterned in cross stitch 42 and 43, or by wax resist 44, or on the loom with supplementary wool weft similar to the man's jacket in 41; knee length hemp or cotton skirt, of two or three tiers, with main tier always patterned by wax resist and dyed in indigo, 45 and 46, and made from two lengths of handwoven cloth c.29cm wide and over 4m long. Flet cape, made of a rectangle with two ties 21... construction of jacket top: two rectangles 54-68cm x 29-32cm, according to size are seamed at the back and there is an interesting solution to the strain at the top of the join. An isosceles triangle of cloth is inserted with the apex fitting into this point. The long side of the triangle acts as part of the base to which the rectangular collar is attached..." [FB 08/05/2012]

Associated publications

Miao Costumes from Guizhou Province South West China by Deryn O' Connor. Catalogue of an exhibition at James Hockney Gallery, WSCAD, Farnham. [FB 08/05/2012]

Search terms: Clothing, Clothing Textile, Collar, Textile