1928.69.1416

Collection type

Object

Description

Unmarried girl’s black breast-cloth ornamented with cowrie trefoils, red doghair ornament and attached to the fringe 3 large buprestid beetles. [LKG 25/2/2010]

Long description

Unmarried girl’s black breast-cloth ornamented with cowrie trefoils, red doghair ornament and attached to the fringe 3 large buprestid beetles, known locally as 'Kezui'.. The top and bottom edges are parallel embroidered pairs of two lines, one red and one white. The bottom edge of the breast cloth is fringed with black thread, and there are three buprestid beetles hung in this fringe. There are three rows of four trefoil cowrie arrangements, and two rows of three doghair ornaments. [LKG 25/2/2010]

Geographical reference

India

Asia > Southern Asia > India

Nagaland; Benroumi village

Cultural groups

Zeme Naga

Person

Field collector James Philip Mills

PRM source James Philip Mills

Date / Period

Date made: Before 1930

Date collected

10 October 1930

Acquisition information

Donated: 1931, uncertain

Materials and processes

Material Cotton Seed Fibre Textile Plant, Material Cowrie Shell, Material Dog Hair Animal, Material Cotton Seed Fibre Yarn Plant, Material Beetle Insect, Process Dyed, Process Woven, Process Stitched, Process Embroidered

Dimensions

Width 500 mm, Length 610 mm

Object numbers

Accession number: 1928.69.1416

Research and responses

A very similar breast cloth (1923.13.4) was viewed virtually by members of the Zeme Naga community in Manipur during a virtual meeting on 16th September 2021, organised as part of the Talking Threads Project. For the full recording please see the project file. The group made the following comments:

This is called ‘Nzana’. It is a breast cloth for women used as dancing attire. The fringe includes elytra of the jewel beetle, known locally as ‘Kezui’ – this is a common insect in the area and is still used for decorating garments today. The red balls are made from dog or goat hair. This type of cloth is mostly used by the Zeme in Nagaland; the Zeme in Manipur rarely wear it.

Some members of the group noted that this cloth is only worn by unmarried girls while dancing. Other stated that it is used by all categories of women; worn by any women, married or unmarried, but only while dancing.

When asked if the girl who wore it may have woven this sort of cloth, the group responded that anyone can weave them, whoever is good can weave, there is no specific age.

Search terms: Textile, Clothing, Dance, Breast Cover, Dance Accessory