Indigo dyed qamis heavily embroidered and decorated with appliquéd textile shapes, brass sequins, plastic buttons and mother of pearl shell. [AFS [OPS move] 2/8/2019]

Collection type: Object
Description: Indigo dyed qamis heavily embroidered and decorated with appliquéd textile shapes, brass sequins, plastic buttons and mother of pearl shell. [AFS [OPS move] 2/8/2019]
Long description: Indigo dyed qamis heavily embroidered and decorated with appliquéd textile shapes, brass sequins, plastic buttons and mother of pearl shell. The design centres around an appliquéd red stripe, situated centrally, extending from the bottom of the neckline towards the hem, and embellished with brass sequins, mother of pearl and plastic button. The embroidery is in red, pale blue, green and yellow, forming linear designs, extending from the shoulders, down the front to the hemline, radiating from the wrsts, and across the shoulders down the sleeves, with numerous brass sequins. A pale blue embroidered stripe runs from the shoulder to the hemline, interrupted on the left front by a pocket lined with green and gold textile, and enclosing the main embroidery section. This stripe is mirrored on the reverse. Textile triangles in a variety of colours decorate the sides toward the bottom of the tunic, and across the lower section of the reverse. embroidery and appliqué decoration forms a triangle on the reverse, from the neckline pointing towards the hemline. Mother-of pearl pieces are sewn across the garment, along with plastic buttons. [AFS [OPS move] 2/8/2019]
Geographical reference: Yemen
Asia > Western Asia > Yemen
Person: Maker Unknown Maker; Field collector Jenny Balfour-Paul; PRM source Jenny Balfour-Paul
Date
Acquisition information: Donated: 03/03/2016
Materials and processes: Material Cotton Seed Fibre Textile Plant, Material Cotton Seed Fibre Yarn Plant, Material Pigment, Material Brass Metal, Material Plastic Synthetic, Material Mother of Pearl Shell, Material Yarn Metallic, Process Appliqué, Process Woven, Process Embroidered, Process Stitched, Process Dyed, Process Forged (Metal)
Dimensions: Width: max 1489 mm, Length: max 1162 mm
Object numbers: Accession number: 2018.37.83 Other numbers: NY21
Research and responses: In Indigo in the Arab World by Jenny Balfour-Paul, Curzon Press, 1997 p 133, Balfour-Paul discusses how brass sequins and pieces of mother-of pearl were often added to dresses to act as lucky charms or offer protection from the evil-eye. [AFS [OPS move] 1/8/2019]
In Indigo in the Arab World by Jenny Balfour-Paul, Curzon Press, 1997 p 131, the term qamis is used o refer to an indigo dyed garment worn by men. [AFS [OPS move] 1/8/2019]
Associated publications: Balfour-Paul, Jenny, Indigo in the Arab World, Routledge, 1997 [AF [EFCF project] 23/8/2019] Balfour-Paul, Jenny, Indigo: Egyptian Mummies to Blue Jeans by , British Museum Press, 1998 [AF [EFCF project] 23/8/2019]

Search terms: Textile, Clothing Textile, Clothing, Amulet, Tunic, Dress