Indigo dyed qamis heavily embroidered and decorated with appliquéd textile shapes, brass paillette and chains, plastic beads and mother of pearl shell. [AFS [OPS move] 5/8/2019]

Collection type: Object
Description: Indigo dyed qamis heavily embroidered and decorated with appliquéd textile shapes, brass paillette and chains, plastic beads and mother of pearl shell. [AFS [OPS move] 5/8/2019]
Long description: Indigo dyed qamis heavily embroidered and decorated with appliquéd textile shapes, brass paillette and chains, plastic beads and mother of pearl shell. The design centres around a pale blue embroidered striped pattern, situated centrally, extending from the bottom of the neckline towards the hem, decorated and with a border of brass sequins and chains, and mother-of-pearl. Either side of the neckline extends a downwardly diagonal section of embroidery in blue thread and brass sequins, ending with mother-of-pearl. A double zigzag stripe extends from the end of each towards the hemline, decorated with brass chains, mother-of-pearl and silver and pearl buttons. This forms the centre of a decorated chevron pattern in brass sequins, with the points facing towards the shoulders. The main embroidery section ends with a single embroidered and decorated chevron, pointing towards the hemline, with radiating decoration. A pale blue and red embroidered stripe runs from the shoulder to the hemline enclosing the main embroidery section, this is mirrored on the reverse. Embroidery and decoration radiates from a red appliqué stripe at the wrists, and the shoulders extending down the sleeves, with small appliqué textile triangles amongst the decoration. Embroidered cross stitch decorates the edges extending from the armpits to the hemline. [AFS [OPS move] 5/8/2019]
Geographical reference: Yemen
Asia > Western Asia > Yemen
Person: Maker Unknown Maker; Field collector Jenny Balfour-Paul; PRM source Jenny Balfour-Paul
Date
Date collected: 1985
Acquisition information: Donated: 03/03/2016
Materials and processes: Material Cotton Seed Fibre Textile Plant, Material Cotton Seed Fibre Yarn Plant, Material Pigment, Material Brass Metal, Material Plastic Synthetic, Material Mother of Pearl Shell, Process Appliqué, Process Woven, Process Embroidered, Process Stitched, Process Dyed, Process Forged (Metal), Process Decorated
Dimensions: Width: max 1417 mm, Length: max 1115 mm
Object numbers: Accession number: 2018.37.82 Other numbers: NY19
Research and responses: In Indigo in the Arab World by Jenny Balfour-Paul, Curzon Press, 1997 p 133, Balfour-Paul discusses how brass sequins and pieces of mother-of pearl were often added to dresses to act as lucky charms or offer protection from the evil-eye. [AFS [OPS move] 1/8/2019]
In Indigo in the Arab World by Jenny Balfour-Paul, Curzon Press, 1997 p 131, the term qamis is used o refer to an indigo dyed garment worn by men. [AFS [OPS move] 1/8/2019]
Associated publications: Balfour-Paul, Jenny, Indigo in the Arab World, Routledge, 1997 [AF [EFCF project] 23/8/2019] Balfour-Paul, Jenny, Indigo: Egyptian Mummies to Blue Jeans by , British Museum Press, 1998 [AF [EFCF project] 23/8/2019]

Search terms: Textile, Clothing Textile, Clothing, Tunic, Dress