Indigo dyed qamis heavily embroidered with silver thread, and decorated with appliquéd textile shapes, brass paillette and chains, and mother of pearl shell. [AFS [OPS move] 5/8/2019]

Collection type: Object
Description: Indigo dyed qamis heavily embroidered with silver thread, and decorated with appliquéd textile shapes, brass paillette and chains, and mother of pearl shell. [AFS [OPS move] 5/8/2019]
Long description: Indigo dyed qamis heavily embroidered with silver thread, and decorated with appliquéd textile shapes, brass paillette and chains, and mother of pearl shell. The design centres around a silver thread embroidered striped pattern, running along the neckline and extending towards the hem, decorated with a border of brass sequins and and mother-of-pearl. It ends above the hemline with a stripe of appliqué textile triangles, mother of pearl and brass chains. Either side of the neckline extends a downwardly diagonal section of embroidery in silverthread and brass sequins, ending with mother-of-pearl and brass chains. An embroidered stripe of alternating blue and red, and green and red sections, runs from the shoulder to the hemline enclosing the main embroidery section, this is mirrored on the reverse. a multicoloured stripe of textile has been sewn around the wrists, and additional indigo dyed cotton has been pleated and stitched to the sleeves forming a cuff. [AFS [OPS move] 5/8/2019]
Geographical reference: Yemen
Asia > Western Asia > Yemen
Person: Maker Unknown Maker; Field collector Jenny Balfour-Paul; PRM source Jenny Balfour-Paul
Date
Date collected: 1985
Acquisition information: Donated: 03/03/2016
Materials and processes: Material Cotton Seed Fibre Textile Plant, Material Cotton Seed Fibre Yarn Plant, Material Pigment, Material Yarn Metallic, Material Mother of Pearl Shell, Material Brass Metal, Material Synthetic Textile, Process Woven, Process Embroidered, Process Stitched, Process Dyed, Process Forged (Metal), Process Decorated, Process Appliqué
Dimensions: Width: max 1414 mm, Length: max 1158 mm
Object numbers: Accession number: 2018.37.81 Other numbers: NY18
Research and responses: In Indigo in the Arab World by Jenny Balfour-Paul, Curzon Press, 1997 p 133, Balfour-Paul discusses how brass sequins and pieces of mother-of pearl were often added to dresses to act as lucky charms or offer protection from the evil-eye. [AFS [OPS move] 1/8/2019]
In Indigo in the Arab World by Jenny Balfour-Paul, Curzon Press, 1997 p 131, the term qamis is used o refer to an indigo dyed garment worn by men. [AFS [OPS move] 1/8/2019]
Associated publications: Balfour-Paul, Jenny, Indigo in the Arab World, Routledge, 1997 [AF [EFCF project] 23/8/2019] Balfour-Paul, Jenny, Indigo: Egyptian Mummies to Blue Jeans by , British Museum Press, 1998 [AF [EFCF project] 23/8/2019]

Search terms: Textile, Clothing Textile, Clothing, Tunic, Dress