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Pitt Rivers Museum

2009.135.4

Embroidered woman's jacket. [FB 08/05/2012]


2009.135.4

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Collection type
Object
Description
Embroidered woman's jacket. [FB 08/05/2012]
Long description
Embroidered woman's jacket. The jacket is made from a base textile of white cotton with the seams stitched in blue cotton yarn. The top of the jacket has been decorated with rectangular pieces of embroidered and appliquéd textile. The decoration is made up of appliquéd red, yellow, white and black cotton strips, which surround rectangles and squares embroidered with elaborate geometric patterned motifs in white, green, yellow and red minute cross stitch. The embroidery is not full cross stitch but 3/4 stitch. [FB 08/05/2012]
Geographical reference
Guizhou Province Nankai Village
Cultural groups
Hmong
Person
Field collector Deryn O'Connor
PRM source Deryn O'Connor
Date / Period
Date made: Before 10/04/1993
Date collected
10 April 1993
Acquisition information
Donated: 2006
Materials and processes
Material Cotton Seed Fibre Textile Plant, Material Cotton Seed Fibre Yarn Plant, Material Silk Yarn Animal, Material Pigment, Process Stitched, Process Dyed, Process Embroidered, Process Woven, Process Appliqué
Dimensions
Width: max 640 mm, Length: max 703 mm
Object numbers
Accession number: 2009.135.4 Other numbers: 9
Research and responses

Taken from Miao Costumes from Guizhou Province South West China by Deryn O' Connor. Catalogue of an exhibition at James Hockney Gallery, WSCAD, Farnham pp.26 -30: "...Woman: everyday: short sleeveless jacket, of hemp or cotton, in the form of a decorated top with collar, tacked onto a collarless underlayer. Tops have rectangular designs in yellow, orange or red appliquéd cotton strips, enclosing areas patterned in cross stitch 42 and 43, or by wax resist 44, or on the loom with supplementary wool weft similar to the man's jacket in 41; knee length hemp or cotton skirt, of two or three tiers, with main tier always patterned by wax resist and dyed in indigo, 45 and 46, and made from two lengths of handwoven cloth c.29cm wide and over 4m long. Flet cape, made of a rectangle with two ties 21... construction of jacket top: two rectangles 54-68cm x 29-32cm, according to size are seamed at the back and there is an interesting solution to the strain at the top of the join. An isosceles triangle of cloth is inserted with the apex fitting into this point. The long side of the triangle acts as part of the base to which the rectangular collar is attached..." [FB 08/05/2012]

Associated publications
Miao Costumes from Guizhou Province South West China by Deryn O' Connor. Catalogue of an exhibition at James Hockney Gallery, WSCAD, Farnham. [FB 08/05/2012]

Search terms: Clothing, Clothing Textile, Collar, Textile, Jacket